Nannarella

Nuts! Almost a year has past since posting. Big news is that we are moving back to California (r.b.w.w.s.f.) late June. Of course such a move, from here, and now, is both good and not good. Who in their right mind wants to leave Italy? Especially with beach season opening. Not to dwell on that, as Gloria is most excited to return to her former employer - you won’t believe the luck she has sometimes

This year we had a wet winter, with 2 snow storms, which did the olives a lot of good it seems from the many fruits the trees are producing. It was also a cold winter, but we escaped to Rome, Siena, south La Marche, and to legions of small villages with their hidden art treasures of churches, frescoes, and museums.

In May, we had a great visit from my cousin Chrissy Haskel! We all went to Assisi and checked out the Riveria Conero beaches.

Maybe this is the last post for the Nannarella blog, but no matter, here are some highlights from Oct. 07 to May 08!!

Hoping your summer was well and lasted just long enough. The summer months have kept us busy and blog-free. Yet, now, the cool autumn airs have returned to the Esino valley, marking the start of kiddie school and the end to bathing suits and the beach bag. So here is a clap-trap-free, coup d’oeil of our summer. After all that ‘coming soon’ crap!

Yes, it was eventful, full of friends, trips, and the many small pleasures of spending it, our first, in Italy.

June and July past quickly, by primarily by going to the beach (same beach, same umbrella). Always meeting friends and relatives there – a very social scene. Anna and Franci became more bronze and giddy as the days past. Anna upgraded to a trainer-wheel free pink Bottecchia bike. Gloria made a trip to Pisa for a conference. And we had friends visit us from Davis, on their way to Pisa also.

Other news to mention: Gloria’s grandmother Quartina passed away at 81 yrs in July. Anna lost her 1st tooth. Gloria’s brother Giovanni and fiancé Michele had their new house finished, and are moving in any day. Stray cats were found and cared for. Chris took up mtn. biking again. And our garden has been very generous, from strawberries, blackberries, baby carrots, many types of green leafy salad, to the usual staples here: tomatoes and zucchini (hats off to the New World!).

Finally, in August, we made the real escape, and drove south to the Puglia region (the heel of the ‘boot’) for a week. This was absolutely delightful. We stayed at a ‘masseria’, which is essentially a farm house converted into resort. There were various apartments, two pools, some grounds, and a wonderful dining area with vaulted stone ceilings. 4 course dinners were included in the stay, so it was an added treat to not worry about which restaurant to go to in the evening. We went to the eastern coast of Puglia just a few minutes north of Otranto. The sea water was excellent. Tranquil, clear, warm water and the kids hunting for star fish and crabs with friends they made at the beach. During our stay, we checked out a few historical, baroque cities: Lecce, Otranto, and Galipoli.

Our next big vacation will be next June, two weeks in Norway, driving up to Copenhagen, visiting friends, then a ferry to Oslo. Am counting the days really.

Today is San Settimio Day, patron saint of Jesi, so we will be heading down to the corso for the usual carnival, raffle, and ‘schlepping’. Be well!

Gloria and kids at Ostuni, just moments before a monster full moon ascended over the sea.

Francino and Nanna at Masseria Grande, Toore del Orso, Puglia

Anna and her Babbo - Ostuni

Hey - I’ve add more summer pics on a separate page. This is not spam! Click here!

Wishing all a great Easter. We had a fine Easter celebration, beginning on Good Friday with a ‘walk of the cross’ event at Poggio Cupro. Saturday we took a day trip to Cingoli - one of Chris’ favorite places in La Marche. Two weeks ago, Argo passed away - we found him lying on the grass in the morning. He was 15 years old the poor dear.

There is no other Easter story to report other than the pics, so below is an Easter collage. Enjoy.

We won’t update you on the winter that didn’t quite make it, or the skiing we missed out on, so will jump right into the good stuff. At present, we are making an ‘orto’ (veggie garden) on a very good patch of earth, only now sparsely inhabited by a few olive trees and a rosemary bush. The earth has been turned, manure hauled up the hill from the farmer down the road (Grazie Dino!) and integrated, and seeds and plants set to go in. Did you know that 1L plastic water bottles, filled, are used here as cat deterrents for gardens and lawns? I am keen to see which ‘pests’ come to the garden. With Argo in his sunset years, there is a black cat that sleeks through the fence and into the yard on occasion, quite self assure that there is now room for two.

Anna had her adenoids removed (again!) and made a quick recovery. The hospital stay was interesting, more prolonged and involved than I recall it in the states, but great care and affection was given to Anna and her two pint-pot roommates, who were having their tonsils removed. Her hearing is much improved (enlarged adenoids increase ear fluid) and she breathes through her nose now, so her voice has slightly increased in pitch (or is that octave)!

In February, our friend Lorenzo married his sweet from Rome. It was a beautiful day in Grottammare, south of Fermo (La Marche). The reception was held at on old villa, once owned by a Bishop who had himself built a private chapel (in photo). The two DJs at the party invited me to the mic and sing a few stanzas from Knocking on Heaven’s Door, and although I immensely enjoyed it, I was a little curious as to the song’s appropriateness, but hey, its their wedding and if I remember correctly, we had both Pink Floyd and Alanis Morissette on our wedding soundtrack.

On one quiet Sunday morning in late January, we took to the road, Rome-ward bound, and after passing through Fabriano, Gloria decided that a nearby mountain abbey, Fonte Avellena, would be worth a visit. The 10th century abbey is tucked high and deep in the east side of the Apennines. There are presently 14 camodolese monks residing at the abbey. Camodolese monks engage in more academic pursuits and maintain a wealthy library.

When Gloria was 13, she stayed at the monastery for one week with others from her confirmation class, on a sort of Catholic boot camp. Recalling the experience on our recent visit, Gloria had made peace with all of the hazing by the monks, and looked back with great fondness. During the spring and summer months, churches do bring their pupils up for a week of contemplation and study. Apparently, one can also arrange to lodge at the abbey and even use the library.

When we arrived, a simple lunch was being served in a large stone hall. Since we had a picnic by a river on our way up the mountain, we had tea and hot coco before touring the grounds. Photos were prohibited inside the monastery, but I can tell you that after taking the guided tour, Fonte Avellena is worth the trip.

To learn more about Fonte Avellena!

Yes to the Earth, and to the seas, and to all creatures dwelling there,
Yes to the air, whence comes life, yes to light and shade,
yes to the rhythm of the seasons and to the rhythm of blood,
yes to everything that forms and transforms itself, rising
from dust and returning to it, yes to the other planets and to the stars
right to the most distant, unknown galaxies,
immeasurably bright, even if their light never reaches us.
yes with all my love, as limited as is my time,
yet which just wants to absorb everything in itself, surround everything!
My outstretched arms are merely the beginning of the circle.
But an all-embracing love will complete it.

(Margherita Guidacci)

Our first Christmas in Italy was a wonderful experience. Before school let out for vacation, I twice visited Franci’s class to sing (!) typical Christmas songs in English and read Christmas stories. Franci freaked out each time I visited – especially when I wore the Santa hat! Anna and Franci were in a gymnastics Christmas show, having only taken private classes since October. While the weather has been cold, the only sign of snow is on the nearby mountain tops, which are accessible by car after a 20 minute ride.

Early in December, we visited our friends from Davis who moved to Solighetto, 1hr NW of Venice. We had a great 2 days with Gianni and Lisa and their 3 beautiful children. Our other friends from Davis, MariaRosa and Diego and their little boy Enrico also visited, so we had a belated Thanksgiving Davis reunion.

Christmas Eve, we all headed to the house of Gloria’s aunt and uncle, Daniela and Massimo. After a dinner of pasta and seafood, we had panatone and spumante. Once gifts were exchanged, we played cards until 1am. Fortunately, Christmas morning was all ours, and so after the children had their Christmas fantasies fulfilled, we returned to Daniela’s house for more Christmas mayhem. Anna and Franci so loved all of the excellent gifts (so thank you!). They are working on their thank you cards now.

The day after my birthday we went to Fabriano, 20 minutes due west. It is a beautiful town and has an open air ice rink in the main piazza for a few weeks around Christmas. After skating we watched two guys ‘clean the ice’ using what appeared to be large ‘witch-like’ broomsticks – the old school Zamboni.

A few things I noticed about the Italian Christmas is that Christmas songs are not heard. More importantly, I was acutely aware that I was not going to have a cup of egg nogg this year, though I imagine Italians might enjoy it with grappa. A few things I was happy to leave far behind were the inflatable Santas on the lawn and the wreaths on the SUV grills. Oh, and the nativity scenes – they are the Italian equivalent to the US’s electric train around the Christmas tree. Were talking lights, life like terrain (sand, gravel, ponds, backdrop wall murals), moving parts – everything you need to bring the historic moment to life in your own living room. Entire stores are devoted to tricking out your nativity scene. Some towns put on a show where the entire town looks and feels like Bethlehem as we would imagine it, with people dressed in robes and sandals, donkeys, carts, blacksmith shops, barns, animals, and the cradle! You essentially walk around watching the town go about its daily life. It is kind of like a reality show: nativity life.

And so the new year arrived and we had another big bash with lots of fireworks throughout the early morning. Wishing all of you health and happiness in 2007.

The willow trees, sycamores, and grape vines have turned color. We use the fireplace daily now. The grape and olive harvests are in full swing. All signs of autumn here in the Esino Valley. Though, conspicuously, no flocks of honking migrating water fowl or passerines. (boh!)

View from Monte Murano - just 20 minutes from country house - dusting of snow on Alpennines

The kids first Halloween in Italy! A recent import from the US. Elena accompanied Gloria, the kids, Marisa, and me for trick or treating along the main corso, where the shops are. We didn’t visit any homes. It seems the shopkeepers were welcoming, though a little wary of the whole thing. There were even bands of teenagers without costumes going store to store. Most of the costumes we saw, especially on girls, were store bought witches (strega) or she-devils. (don’t know what Italian translation would be). On the walk back to Marisa’s house, a 30-ish fellow crossed the street to ask Elena why she was wearing a wtiches hat, and he been seeing girls with these hats that evening. He thought there was some party. When Elena toldhim about Halloween, he seems quite left-out. Alas, as he suspected all along, he had been born too early! Porco Miseria!

Anna and Franci - Halloween 2006 - Costumes by Marisa (concept by Gloria)

Twice a week (Monday and Wed), the kids goto gymnastics class directly after school. The gym is just off the corso. The kids love it and do quite well. Franci wears an extra pair of Anna’s pink ballet slippers for now (he doesn’t mind/notice!).

Since October, I have seen the countryside full of micro-harvest activity - little Fiats parked precariously on the roadside with a family trudging into the woods, carrying wicker baskets - hunting for truffles. Then the grapes. Then the walnuts. Then the chestnuts. Then the persimmons. And most recently, olives. This past weekend, the dozen or so olive trees on the country house property were harvested. Gualtiero and Marisa had the operation in full swing Saturday morning. It was a wonderful experience. Once the net is placed at the bottom of the tree, proppep up with a few sticks, the hands are used to strip the branches of their green and brown olives. Once ALL of the olives are off, the olives are places into 5 gallon buckets. By mid day, we had ~ 70 kilos of olives. Gualtiero, the kids, and I transported the olives, then in crates, to a local olive mill. There, with the kids watching the process, the olives were weighed and it was determined that 15 Liters were its equivalent. Gualtiero had brought 2 clean, 7.5 Liter glass jugs. Then the jugs were filled - presto! If you wanted oil from your olives, you had to have at least 200 kilos of olives. There was no fee for the the exchange as they take a % of the olives we delivered - not bad! When we returned, Marisa and Gloria had lunch on the table. What a wonderful meal - with the fresh olive oil over a slice of bread and this years red wine (vino rosso novello). With the fireplace going, and an espresso afterward, it was time for a good nap. (”and thats’s just what we did”)

Hi all, this is Gloria writing…well…we are finally here!

It has been hard and difficult but we made it!

Everybody knows how emotionally difficult taking the decision to leave was (and I am sure you are all tired to hear about it!!)…and I’ve always thought that once here I would have felt better …and that was true indeed!

I feel good about being here and extremely lucky to have had the opportunity to be able to be in the States, have a family and a fantastic job, and now to be able to show to my family where I come from and what made me who I am now!

Anna and Francesco are having a blast. They are really enjoying being here surrounded by family! They love being around my parents and my brother and his girlfriend…and everybody else…I am glad they are extremely friendly and open and sweet with anyone we meet…who is introduced as zio/zia “so and so”…Anna even asked me…Mamma, how many zio e zia do I have here in italy?”

They are really enjoying their school. Anna is very happy and she is starting to get to know all the children in her class by name, they are 18, and almost everyday she comes home with a little homework (now she is studying the vowel E and she is understanding the concept of “included into” and “excluded from”) and next week the lunch program will start, for both Anna and Franci. I told them that they are going to have a restaurant in their school and they are all exited about that!!
Franci also is very happy about going to school and he is calling his new friends “my new brothers”…so sweet…all the teachers are fallen in love with him and with his sweet little face and great sense of humor. All the teachers, even the ones in other classes already know him by name, also he is the big news for this year, being American and all. Yesterday when I drop him off I sow two teachers that were there when I was attending the same school, some thirty years ago, and they were very happy to see me, they cried and hugged me and immediately recognize me….and when I told them I was Francesco’s mom…they started praising him…making me very proud of my little boy!

So when I think of the kids, I can’t help but think that this was the best thing I could do for them!

But of course life here is very different, as Chris has posted. I have to say I am enjoying going around and meet people I know everywhere (Jesi is not that big, and you pretty much know everybody!). I got used to the “fast and now” American way, though! So it was frustrating having to wait for things to happen or having to go in person everywhere whenever you needed a quote…but I am slowly adjusting (or should I say regressing!)…

I am happy about the fact that we have friends here, whome we met in Davis, and moved to Italy with us, Mariarosa, Diego and their son Enrico. It is nice and liberating being able to pick up the phone and talk with someone who is sharing the same experiences and frustrations you are living!!

I am looking forward to start working, I am ready of being busy and engaging my mind with something else…I really miss my old work and my ex-coworkers…but now I am really exited of what I might accomplish here!

Well bye bye for now…I will write soon!
Don’t hesitate and write up your comments! We’ll be glad to hear from you!

First post from Italy, 4 weeks since arrival. Us new arrivals (Anna, Franci, and me) have taken to our new home very well - who could not! Life here is designed and maintained to treat you well from day to day. In the first week, we rested and ate well as we got over the jet lag. Gloria’s wonderful parents have been their usual generous selves, having provided the second floor of their county house for us. Gloria’s brother Giovanni and his fiance Michele live on the first floor. Marisa prepares amazing meals for lunch and dinner - she seems to never rest. Gualtiero is ever industrious - he has partially restored the grotto into a cantina, you can see it in the photo with the car below. They live in their city house during the week and visit the country house on the weekends. The children are thriving in their new surroundings with Uncle Giovanni and Zia Michele, and so many other aunts, uncles, and cousins.

We were fortunate to arrive in late August and still had some very good beach weather, and fresh figs from the yard. Now, near the end of September, autumn is here and cooler days are becoming more frequent. There has been a tremendous amount of things to get done since the jet lag passed: apply for residence status for the kids and me, prepare kids for school, find a pediatrician, etc. The story of my residency status was more complex, as my name of my passport differed slightly from the name of my marriage certificate! oops! So, after a trip the US Embassy in Rome, and a few weeks later, I am finally on track to get the residency in November, which will allow me to apply for official drivers license, health care, and work permit.

One the of most wonderful things about returning to Italy is the reuniting with the food and drinks! Seafood pasta, prosciutto and melon, Verdiccio wine, and le dolce! Of course it is a given that there is everything to love about Italy, so I have shared below some things I have found amusing, but of course, are part of the list of ‘why I love Italy’. Enjoy.

Casa in Campagna

At Rimini beach with friends (Franci and Enrico)

Best of Luck in Work and School
Anna and Franci have started school one week ago. Both schools are a few blocks from the Muzzi’s city house. Franci attends Isola Felice (Happy Island) preschool. Anna attends Scuola Elementare (Martiri della Liberta) – 1st grade. Both schools are public, yet Franci’s is newer and recently expanded. Anna’s school is, well, at first sight I assumed it was a long abandoned govt. building (sorry Gloria!). Public schools are run on the cheap it seams when it comes to keeping up appearances. The inside is more presentable. Anna’s room is one of the first rooms off the main entrance foyer. They are served lunch, gratis, at tables complete with menus and service! Also Franci.

Anna has been very good about doing her homework (compiti) with Gloria in the evening. When her teacher checks her compiti, Anna often gets M.B. written on the top-right corner of the page (Molto Bene!). Anna also has school on Saturday mornings (8:15 to noon). What a downer! Since all kids here do it, she does not know any better. Franci has two girl friends at his school: Adele and Benedetta. He received a warm welcome from Adele on the first day at the school’s entrance when Adele saw Franci and sweetly called his name. They held hands and entered the school. Adele called him Francino! Oh, preschool and elementary school students have to wear smocks (blue for boys, red for girls), with buttons and collars, over their clothes. An ounce of leftist uniformity in the schools. At least Anna will not get distracted with what the other girls are wearing.

First day of school!

Anna’s desk: first row. Go girl!

Franci and Adele at Isola Felice

Entering School Together!

Inside church from balcony: Maolati Spontini

Ricardo at the pipe organ

Ricardo plays

Anna and Franci are excelling in Italian – speaking more and more each day. I have been holding my own, not feeling overwhelmed at all, since I have Gloria to speak English with as a relief. Learning both dialect (Marchigiano) and correct Italian is frustrating sometimes – since most of the Italian I hear on a daily basis has some dialect mixed in. Some of the TV shows help, speaking of which, there are some US shows like Chips and Simpsons that are dubbed/aired on a daily basis. Also some imported telenovellas (soap operas) from Germany too. Dubbed movies that are popular here include Clerks II and Cars. Speaking of cars, Italians worship their cars. In support of this claim, there is not a bumper sticker, personal plate frame, or window sticker to be seen.

Thank you for reading this large entry. We will do our best to update with pics and news more frequently!

I look forward to your comments, messages, and photos.

Chris

Two weeks before leaving Davis, Ca. for La Marche, Italia.
A final farewell, hope to see you again someday, trip to SF tomorrow.
Next weekend we will spend 3 days at Sorenson’s Resort south of Lake Tahoe in the Sierra Nevada - in Hope Valley.
That’s the boilerplate for now.

Now, how do I cram a year of Italian language study into two weeks? Dio porco!!